I awoke in the middle of the night with the familiar yet unfamiliar feeling of being in a bed that wasn’t mine. The mattress was so comfortable that, for a moment, I wondered if I was in a fancy hotel. Light was pouring in through the window from a bright moon, stars visible in the clear sky behind the silhouettes of mountains and trees. I remembered that I was deep in the wilderness, just south of Whistler, staying at the Journeyman Lodge in the Callaghan Valley.
I hadn’t been sure what to expect when I booked two nights at the Journeyman Lodge in summer. I’d heard about it as a famed destination for backcountry skiers in winter, but had only recently learned that it’s also open in summer as a base for hikers exploring the surrounding mountains. The lodge had been described to me as “backcountry luxe,” and those two words perfectly summed up my experience: a blend of comfort and rugged wilderness.
Getting to the Lodge
Reaching the Callaghan Base is a straightforward 25-minute drive from Whistler. From there, it’s choose your own adventure, with the option of a bike trail from the base all the way to the Lodge, or driving the forest service road up to Callaghan Lake and hiking the remaining five kilometres in. We chose the latter, and it was an off-road but relatively simple drive, taking about 20 minutes (four-wheel drive vehicles are recommended).
One of the many perks of staying at the lodge is that the lodge staff drive a buggy in, so we were able to send a bag ahead with them. We packed it with a few comfort items we wouldn’t need on the trail, which made the hike in lighter and more enjoyable.
The hike to the lodge was lovely. It starts in a quiet forest and eventually opens up into alpine meadows with sweeping mountain views. The trail is just over five kilometres with about 150 metres of elevation gain, and it is well-maintained but still rugged in spots. We took it at a leisurely pace and spent almost two hours making our way to the lodge, stopping often to take in the views and enjoy the landscape.
Cosy Backcountry Base
Arriving at the lodge, we discovered a beautifully crafted structure with all the modern comforts you could ask for. Three stories, with a lovely big dining room and balcony on the ground floor and a lounge complete with a pool table and comfortable couches on the second floor. Our room was on the third floor, alongside a cozy, communal nook area. Bathrooms with hot showers and brand new, comfortable mattresses were the perfect final touch.
When we arrived, we enjoyed the sunshine on the lower deck and chatted with our fellow lodge guests, a group of four older ladies. They told us about how they have gotten together every year for a hiking trip for over 40 years, and were delighted to discover the Journeyman Lodge for their annual tradition.
“Sometimes we let our husbands come along,” one of them told me, “but they slow us down.”
The hosts, when we visited, were Elina and Ursani, both from Ukraine. Their hospitality was amazing, and Ursani’s meals were a definite highlight. Breakfast, a three-course dinner, après snacks and packed lunches were all provided, and they were incredibly delicious. Our dinner that evening included arancini to start, and pork belly served with roasted carrots, peaches, parsnip purée, and a reduction. For dessert, we had ricotta lemon cake, and though I didn’t want to stop eating it, I was so full that I saved most for my hike the next day.
Day Hiking from the Lodge
We woke up to a rainy morning and reluctantly left the comfort of the lodge to hike to Ring Lake. It was an adventurous hike, with muddy trails and river crossings. But it was rewarding, as the views at the end were spectacular. There and back, the hike was around nine kilometres with 500 meters of elevation gain, made trickier by challenging terrain.
Very keen hikers could add a climb of Mount Callaghan onto the hike, as the ascent to the peak begins at Ring Lake. I can imagine that the views from the peak back down to the lake are incredible; however, due to the rain on the day we hiked to Ring Lake, we didn’t attempt it. We were so grateful to return to the cozy lodge after our rainy hike, where we enjoyed warm showers, delicious après snacks, and some games of pool, wishing our time in this paradise could last longer than just one more night.
For those looking for a more relaxed hike during their stay, there is a trail around the lake next to Journeyman Lodge, which is called Conflict Lake. We walked some of the trail as a detour on our hike out the next day, and it provided wonderful views of the lodge from across the lake, as well as the surrounding mountains.
While I love hiking, I could just as easily spend the day relaxing at the lodge — reading, soaking in the surroundings, and enjoying the amenities. A particularly unique feature is the sauna, built right beside the river, where you can alternate between its steamy heat and literally immersing yourself in the surrounding nature with an invigorating cold plunge.
Back to Base
The following morning brought bright sunshine and a leisurely breakfast on the sun-soaked patio. We hiked out the way we came in, with a short detour to explore part of the Conflict Lake trail, before passing once again through meadows and forest until we reached our vehicle and drove out to the Callaghan Base to meet the team and collect our bags.
It was great to end the trip where it began, back at the Callaghan Base with its iconic big red double-decker bus and useful little shop stocked with backcountry essentials you may have forgotten or wished you’d brought. We chatted with the Operations Manager and learned more about the work they’re doing in collaboration with the Squamish First Nation to steward the land with care and respect, from new signage that shares land acknowledgements and trail guidelines, to the choice to build trail infrastructure with fallen trees instead of bringing in new materials.
A thoughtful mindset is present in every part of the experience, which blends remoteness, uniqueness, and comfort. I already know I’ll be back, hopefully next time to take the journey on two bike wheels instead of my two feet.
You can book a stay at the Journeyman Lodge online, but you can also stop by the Callaghan Country Base to rent kayaks, canoes and paddle boards for use on Callaghan Lake.
